Tonkin Voyage Travel is introducing you to some of the expat women that make-up Hanoi! Read on for some excellent recommendations on the best places to eat, what they miss the most about home and what is just so captivating about our city that they chose to stay.

1. How long have you been in Hanoi?

 I’ve been in Hanoi a little over three months. I visited Vietnam (and Hanoi) for the first time in 2010, as part of an organised tour. I vowed to return one day and spend more time getting to know this wonderful country, because Vietnam stole my heart! I arrived at the end of November 2016, but it feels like I have been here much longer. I have settled in so well. I’ve even done my first visa run!

2. How long do you intend to stay?

I’m not sure. Possibly another year or two, maybe longer. As an older woman, there is nothing for me in Australia—apart from my family and friends, of course. With Vietnam being one of the fastest growing economy in Asia, there are so many interesting ways to earn an income if you are a tertiary educated native speaker. And the cost of living is so much less than Australia.

3. What do you do?

I came to Hanoi specifically to volunteer at KOTO, which trains disadvantaged youth in hospitality. Remember that trip to Vietnam in 2010? As part of tour, I ate at KOTO Restaurant and was so impressed with the work they did I vowed to return and volunteer. I had to commit to a three months, but I love it so much, I am doing another three months….! I’m also a freelancer: I write for the Word Vietnam, I’m an English editor for a Sao Khue Consulting, and recently had my first travel essay published in Flung Magazine.

4. Do you speak much Vietnamese?

A little – I have a private teacher and I attend an hour and a half lesson once a week. The hardest thing about learning Vietnamese (for a westerner) is pronunciation. Tones add an extra layer of complexity. I’m at the stage now that I can have a transactional conversations, which are always helpful. And I know quite a few random phrases, which no one expects me to be able to say. I can also read Vietnamese, but it always sounds much better in my head than when it comes out of my mouth!

5. What was your first impression of the city?

I arrived late in Hanoi after a long day of travel, so it was night. I remember how busy and noisy it was, particularly as I was staying in the Old Quarter. There were motorbikes everywhere, and the sound of horns tooting was relentless, like an onslaught. I’ve gotten used to the motorcycle traffic and the horns: it seems chaotic, but there’s an organized calm in how the traffic flows. Road rage isn’t a thing here like it is in Australia.

6. What is it about Hanoi you have grown to love?

The people. Hanoians—local and expats—are so kind and lovely. I have made so many friends (local and expat), and because of these relationships, I feel a deep, rich connection with this amazing city. My best Vietnamese friend picks me up from my apartment and takes me for meals at spots I’d never find myself. I love being on the back of his motorcycle riding around West Lake, or through the Old Quarter. Friends are made very quickly: there’s always someone around to have a drink or a meal with. I did a count recently and I know as many people in Hanoi as I do in my home city of Adelaide, which is amazing given that I’ve only been here three months!

7. What aspect of Hanoi is the most different from your home country?

Hanoi is such a vibrant city, and there is so much going on. I can literally walk out my door and there’s something interesting happening: a funeral, a market, drumming practice, badminton tournament, even construction! If I go further afield, there are all kinds of arts and culture events I can go to: the Opera, the Temple of Literature, the Mausoleum, historical walking tours plus comedy and jazz and theatre and open mic sessions and art galleries, for example. And there are so many restaurants and cafes and markets to visit. I have a very active social life in Hanoi: more so than in my home city. I think it’s because I bother more here. I make an effort because I don’t know how long I will be in Hanoi and I want to make the most of my time here.

8. What do you miss the most about your home country?

My cat… but I’ll bring her over if I plan to stay longer than a year. Luckily, my daughter is looking after her (and yes, I do Skype my cat).

9. What is a ‘must-do’ for when you have visitors?

Eat at KOTO restaurant (59 Văn Miếu, Đống Đa), of course! It’s right across the road from The Temple of Literature, so you can have your meal, support a worthy cause, and visit a site of significant cultural heritage. Two birds with one stone.

I can highly recommend cycling around West Lake—it’s stunning, especially at sunset.

10. How would you spend an average Sunday in Hanoi?

I often catch up with friends on a Sunday. We go for coffee, or a cycle, or dinner. Sometimes I work, depending on my deadlines!

11. Favourite food (and location) Hanoi has to offer?

I’m a vegetarian, so I’m a big fan of bún đậu – deep fried tofu with rice noodles and herbs, which comes with a smelly but delicious shrimp dipping sauce. You can get it anywhere in Hanoi, but I tend to eat it in the Old Quarter with my Vietnamese bestie.

12. Is the pho better in Saigon or Hanoi?

Hanoi, of course!